Epoxy table

thought I could just run thru my planer but after a bit i realized that wasn't going to work. I had only spend time with two boards (I split these three to fit into planer). I have a hand joiner that I thought about using but the time involved with that would have ben quite a bit more that I wanted to invest in this.



So - the internets of things taught me about a router sled. I've had a new router, in the box, for about five years. Thought I'd give it a shot. Had to get some bar clamps anyway as the ones I have are not large enough for this project. It mostly worked, and what didn't was due to my ignorance so next time will be easier / better results. Important thing is I now have one side good so I can finish other side in the planer - which is much more time efficient.

The markings on the wood from the router is (I think) due to one of my lessons learned - the sled was high enough that I had to extend the bit out so the shaft was bending into the rotation when in the wood. I'm sure there is a technical term for that, i call it bending.





This is the wood I'm using. I'll get some close ups as well so you can see all the little holes from the beetles.



Ambrosia Maple is a general term attached to a variety of Acer (true maple) species whose boards included colorful bug “trails” — caused by a fungus carried by the Ambrosia Beetle which penetrates the tree sap as the beetle eats into the tree, and it spreads both through the worm hole and up and down in the tree (carried along by the sap) and causes discoloring of the wood in streaks. The two primary species which draw the beetle’s attention are Acer Rubrum (Red Maple) and Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple), although — with there reputedly being more than sixty different Acer species indigienous to North America — this unusual phenomenon is certainly not confined to just the two. Weight and density can vary greatly — depending upon the actual species — the typical varieties of maple figuring can also be present, often creating some very unique, visually spectacular specimens.

Now, to the epoxy part. If anyone has input/experience/lessons learned that would be great.





Couple questions/thoughts:



I will be splining the pieces together (not biscuits) on all but the epoxy ones of course. I plan on using melamine with mold release and latex caulk. Also for the ends, may use window putty to create a dam rather than complete a box? I don't want to build a complete or partial box for the whole thing, just the area I want to pour. I know that has potential for disaster but I think I can redneck my way thru that.



I know the epoxy is supposed to become just part of the surface but can I also run a routed channel on the edges (yes even the live edge) to ass an epoxy spline of sorts? I'm not going to be using clear. I've not see thins on the interwebs so asking for input. On paper it makes complete sense.





Thinking about the color. Everyone does the river blue but A) that is not her style (doing for a friend) and B) I would want to practice more than I will on that style before committing to a full project like this. So I'm thinkin black or white. The black will compliment the beetle holes which I will also fill up and five the few softwood spots the same negative space look. I think also will work well with the finished wood (natural stain/hard wax/whatever I decide). The white would give a contrast and would use in the softwood sections but still tint the beetle holes black. Would that be odd? And if I go white, I'll probably do a glow in the dark.



Single or double pour? For sure double if going glow in the dark white but maybe either way since my lack of experience maybe can cover up some mistakes and see my thought above on the potential disaster - the loss would be mitigated. Also any tips on weather related concerns on the curing will be great.



So, these are my morning thoughts. Getting up at 2am gives one lots of time to ponder.

usually no time constraints on that

How do your last polish of the epoxy after sanding? My young fella is experimenting with carving and epoxy filling but doesnt know what to do after he sands it back and it's all milky looking.

so here is the final layout.

















Markup the form to hold the pour with screws





















screws in















caps to hold the epoxy in

so... final pour tonight as the other has cured for the requisite 72 hours with no issues. I will be scuffing up the clear surface and the remaining exposed edge as epoxy apparently does not like to stick to epoxy when it is smooth. Wipes down with 100% alcohol and pour. Or so they say....

more news as it breaks.